Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Reality Checks

I am slipping back more and more into the life I once knew, knowing I will never quite be the same again, but I have once more grown accustomed to traffic and paved roads; the selection of a hundred cereals and dozens of cooking oils at the store; news, music, advertisements, cell phones, laptops, televisions and pdas a constant affront to my senses. I am getting a little impatient again, and a touch ungrateful. Expectations are swelling, so is my sense of me: I want to do this; I don't want to do that. The aura of duty and service dwindling. When will I get a job? When will I get money?

I spoke with Emma this morning. She is my Ugandan cousin, my Aunt Vinnie's daughter whom I stayed with often in Kampala, sometimes running around together in the capital going to muzungu bars and waking up the next morning with headache thinking, man I'm old.

There was a boy that stayed with their family, one of their cousins. He often parked himself on the couch next to the T.V. in the large sitting room, watching Ugandan music videos, dubbed telenovella or maybe a pirated DVD rented from the shop around the corner. The boy rarely spoke, sitting with his jaw always ajar, his eyes dully watching the world around him. He didn't like going to school, preferring television and video games. Emma told me he stayed with them because he was good friends with Derrico, their youngest sibling, and because he would attend classes for his kind Aunt Vinnie.

And then one morning I awoke at their house some months ago to find all the younger kids gone to school, but Joseph still sitting in front of the TV.

"You should go to school, Joseph. Just cause Aunt Vinnie isn't here today doesn't mean you shouldn't be in class," I yelled to him from the kitchen. He didn't even look at me, still watching the T.V. with his mouth agape. What a weird boy.

Emma sort of laughed behind me going in and out the kitchen to make food on the charcoal stove outside.

"He doesn't like to go because he' sick," she said softly so he couldn't hear. "He says there's no point because he is going to die."

"What?" I asked, although I needed to further explanation.

"He's got HIV."

She told me the boy was very sick and actually older than Derrico, although he looked two or three years his junior. After that I watched him more, noticing the sick child smiled around his cousin, I think the only time I saw him smile, laughing while thoughtful and ebullient Derrico played video games. I saw Joseph and Derrico together all the time the first several months I visited Vinnie's, but then around the holidays or maybe it was after the beginning of the year, Joseph was noticeably absent from their sitting room, the seat next to the T.V. empty.

"He's sick," Emma responded when I asked about the boy. "He went back to stay with his father. Mommy couldn't take care of him all the time."

And I never saw him again.

And then this morning, thousands of miles and moments away, I got an email from Emma. She'd been busy with exams, she hadn't heard from my kids. Oh, and our cousin Joseph had passed away about three weeks ago.

I called her immediately.

"He kept getting better then falling sick again," she said.

"Was he taking his medicine?"

"Yes. Mommy was taking care of him. But one day he just closed his eyes," she explained plainly as a red-tailed hawk flew overhead casting me in its shadow, while I sat by my parent's pool that rests on a hill overlooking swaying eucalyptus trees in a chaparral canyon, cars on well-paved roads below us going to work, dropping children off at schools, the things I was growing accustomed to slamming into the things I could easily forget.

"Derrico cried," she added of her little brother. Ugandan men and boys never cry, she didn't have to tell me. I hung up the phone feeling shameful.

I don't have any pictures of Joseph, but I wish I did. Here are some pictures of Aunt Vinnie and Derrico in their backyard the morning of a solar eclipse.






Friday, June 4, 2010

Blissful Convergence: The Fourth-Graders

The fourth grade class was the next I presented to the day I went to my sister’s elementary school. Paired with Beatrice, the children had sent dozens of heartfelt correspondence to my 10 year old. Here are a few of my favorites from the second set of letters (the first set can be found here):

Dear Beatrice,
Happy Valentine’s Day! It has been a long time since writing a letter. Valentine’s Day is something we celebrate of love and kisses. I wanted to write/say how are you doing? Oh, and what are 20,000 shilips [shillings]. By the way how is Uganda? Beatrice you are a fun person to write to. I hope you study. Again, Happy Valentine’s Day.
Your Friend,
Emily Peralta

Dear Beatrice,
My name is Joseph. I would like to ask you questions about you. What is your favorite food? What is your favorite sport? What do you do with your family? How many brothers and sisters do you have? I have two brothers. One has twelve the other one has three. The little one bothers me too much. The big one always plays. I am a terrific student.
Sincerely,
Joseph Castro

Dear Beatrice,
How are you? I am fine. Today was rainy here. Was it good in Uganda? I think we will be good friends. Is your country grassy or sandy? I want to know about you and your country. I am an only child. Are you too? I like to go outside. Do you? What are some of your traditions? What is the name of the language you speak? What remedies are there in Uganda? Are the flowers pretty? Do you think we will be friends? What do you like?
I hope you write back.
Sincerely,
Anthony

Dear Beatrice,
Hi how are you Beatrice? I’m fine. I am so happy writing to you. I was wondering of a song you told me about. I think it is bread in butter. I have two questions for you. What is your favorite food? Also, if you like animals. I love animals. I was wondering if you could send me a picture of the animals in Africa. I hope you write back.
Your Friend,
Jasmine

I began the presentation by giving each of the children Beatrice’s replies. They stared wide-eyed at the papers, leaning over each other comparing answers. Then I played the video on everyday Ugandan life, and like in the second grade class, the children discussed their impressions afterwards, little voices telling me they noticed Ugandan children had to fetch water, didn’t have desks in school, played with trash because they had no toys and ate food they grew in the gardens. I made it a point to explain during the slide show when a picture appeared of children leaning to the ground cleaning a school hall with rags that there were no janitors at Ugandan schools. I heard a room full of gasps...especially from the teachers. How would you like to go out and clean the halls now? The teachers gruffed to their children.

I then passed around jewelry from Uganda, explaining that some of the beads were made of paper, which women painstakingly rolled, dyed and varnished. I showed them the wallet made of bark and the earrings made of reed. We talked about the clothes Ugandans wore. I explained they either draped themselves in traditional African cloth with vivid patterns, or more commonly, put on Western shirts and pants. I glanced around at nicely dressed children behind wide white desks.

“What do you do with your clothes when you don’t want them anymore?” I asked.

“We give them to charity.”

“Right. And do you know what happens to many of the clothes you donate to charity?” The kids looked at me expressionlessly. “They get sent to Africa.” I paused letting it sink in. “And guess what? Africans have to buy them – usually at open markets where the clothes are piled on the ground. They don’t pay much, maybe 25 or 50 cents for a shirt, but for them sometimes that’s a lot of money. You might even see a T-shirt from this elementary school in Africa.” I pointed to a girl in a bright pink and sunshine flowered shirt. “Someday you may get tired of that nice shirt or too big for it, and you’ll give it to charity and a girl in Africa might end up wearing it.” The kids all looked down at their clothes.

I couldn’t speak for long; my presentation was limited to about fifteen minutes, but I knew how it would end.

“Jasmine. Which one of you is Jasmine?” A round faced girl in the corner giggled and raised her hand. “Beatrice told you in her first letter she wanted to sing you a song called Bread and Butter. Do you remember?” Her brown mane flopped up and down. I turned to the rest of the class to explain. “The song is about friendship, how friends go together like bread and butter. Beatrice liked having Jasmine and all of you as friends and wanted to show it.” I turned back to Jasmine. “Before I left Uganda, I recorded Beatrice singing the song so you and the rest of the class could hear it.”

A hushed anticipation swept across the little crowd. Then Beatrice’s sweet voice filled the room.